By FLORENCE FABRICANT
In a world awash in olive oil, it is a hard to imagine a new one that could merit singling out. But several olive oils, and one innovative grapeseed oil, are worthy of the attention of the serious cook. None are cheap, so they are probably not for dishes in which a supermarket brand will do...
...A more unusual newcomer is Salute Santé's cold-pressed extra virgin grapeseed oil, which is made from grapeseeds that have not been allowed to ferment after the grapes are pressed for wine. Unlike typical grapeseed oils, which are pale and fairly neutral tasting, this one, made by Food & Vine in Napa, is greenish and somewhat more viscous and has a sweet, floral aroma and a mellow, slightly fruity taste. It is also unfiltered, which gives it the richer color, yet it's not cloudy with sediment. Like most grapeseed oils, it does not solidify when refrigerated, so you don't get clumps in your salad dressing or marinade, which you might if you used olive oil.
But this is a jewel-box oil, in a dark bottle with gold leaf on the label, which cost $30 for eight ounces (www.grapeseedoil.com); |
it will be in stores this fall. So use it sparingly, as a seasoning for salmon poached in white wine, in a sauce for leeks vinaigrette or on a tender salad scattered with walnuts and pears.
In this age of specialization, Food & Vine is now developing varietal grapeseed oils. First on the list is chardonnay, so the oil can match yourglass of wine. For further information, call Food & Vine at (707) 251-3900. Salute Santé's extra virgin grapeseed oil will cost about $30 for eight ounces.
reproduced with permission of the Author: FLORENCE FABRICANT.
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